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Pruning may be defined as the removal of any excess or undesirable branches, shoots, roots, or any other parts of a plant, so as to allow the remaining parts to grow normally or according to the desire of the pruner.
Pruning is the removal of unwanted, surplus annual growth, dead, diseased, dried and broken branches of the plants Pruning is an art of removing scientifically certain portions of a plant with a view to producing more and superior quality of fruit.
Pruning of any kind according to its severity, changes the nutritive conditions with in the tree and consequently, limits or encourages fruit bud formation.
Reasons for pruning
There always seems to be surplus branches on a tree. But only those, which are useful to the plant in holding up the leaves to the sun to grow strong. Those which will have little chance of doing so, because of shade or other reasons become weak and eventually dry up. Evidently the plant is making a selection and eliminating the useless branches. But this process of selection and elimination is a slow one. Till they are eliminated the useless branches also draw some nutrients which is a waste for the tree ultimately. If such branches are recognized and eliminated earlier will help in conservation of food in the tree for better production.
The second reason for pruning will be the removal of diseased twigs to check the spread of diseases
In some fruit trees, fruits are borne on current flush (Ber, Grape etc.) which will be obtained in large number after pruning of certain no. of old branches.
The second reason for pruning will be the removal of diseased twigs to check the spread of diseases
In some fruit trees, fruits are borne on current flush (Ber, Grape etc.) which will be obtained in large number after pruning of certain no. of old branches.
Objectives of Pruning:
1)To remove the surplus branches and direct the sap flow in to the remaining branches.
2)To develop a strong frame work which can carry the load of a good crop and can with stand strong winds.
3)To train the plants to a definite shape. Ex. Fence, Hedge, Topiary etc.
4)To thin out branches so as to admit more light into the interior of the tree top so that the inner wood also becomes fruitful.
5)To limit the size of the tree top to a convenient one so as to render spraying and picking more easy and economically.
6)To regulate the spacing and distribution / direction of branches.
7)To distribute the fruiting wood in all directions and to maintain a balance between vegetative and reproductive phases.
8)To improve the growth of the spur (A short lateral branch one inch or less in length with nodes close together, so that the leaves converge to form a rosette ) shoots and production of more flower buds.
9)To check the further spread of the diseases.
10) To maintain the vigour of the plant by removing the water shoots and other unwanted growth.
Responses of plants to pruning
The response of plants to pruning should be well understood for successfully achieving the object of pruning. The following are the some of the important ways in which the plants show response to pruning.
1.Activation of buds: When a branch is cut or pruned, the buds on the branch below the cut are invigorated (activated). The bud close to the cut is most vigorous and this vigour decreases in the buds as the distance increases from the cut. This is due to the elimination of the apical dominance of the terminal bud from which the auxin flows down and inhibits the growth of the lateral buds. This response is made use of to determine the direction of the existing branches and correcting a crotch. If the crotch is a narrow (The angle between the branch and the stem on which it arises –Crotch), the branch is pruned to an outer bud, so that the bud will produce a branch towards the outer side usually at right angles to the branch or nearly so. As it grows larger, it pulls away from the stem and eventually widens the crotch. Similarly, a wide crotch can be narrowed down by pruning the branch to an inner bud.
2.Dwarfing response: The immediate effect of pruning is no doubt invigoration of new branches owing to the diversion of food, but due to removal of much foliage, there is an overall reduction in the manufacture of food resulting a shock on root growth This in turn limits the further growth of the new shoots .When the growth of the new shoot is reduced, their length is also reduced. Therefore, the net effect of pruning a tree is dwarfing, which is in proportion to the severity of pruning. Both the spread of the top as well as the spread of the root system are reduced. This also results in dwarfing of the plant.
3.Production of water shoots: Severe pruning often activates resting or adventitious buds and buds on old wood may some time be stimulated to grow. They often produce branches, which grow vertically and very vigorously with long internodes; angular stems large succulent leaves and thorns (as in citrus). They are called water shoots or water suckers or bull canes. These highly vegetative water shoots are seldom fruitful till they are several seasons old. They are wasteful and unwanted because they draw much food and grow at the expense of the fruiting wood and are better removed as soon as they appear. However, they may be profitably used in some instances to fill in the gaps occurring in trees by lopsided development or loss of branches due to other causes. Eg.Citrus, Guava, Ber, Sapota, cashew etc.
4.Delay in bearing: When pruning is severe particularly in early years of the fruit plant, bearing is delayed. Some times severe pruning may also lead to poor yields, because a major portion of the foliage and fruiting wood are lost.
Methods of pruning
1.Thinning out: When a shoot is removed entirely from the inception (from the point of origin) so that, no new shoot arises from that place, it is referred as thinning out. This thinning is practiced in the removal of shoots arising in unwanted places, water shoots etc. 2.Trimming: Cutting the growth of the twigs to a pre-determined level as in the case of fence, hedge and edge.
3.Heading back: When the branches grow tall and vigorously without producing flowers, these shoots are headed back. When a branch is cut almost to the base, leaving a few inches of stump, carrying few buds, it is referred as Heading Back. These buds left on the stump will give rise to shoots which are important to the tree either being spur bearers or bearing flower buds or filling up of gaps in the tree or forming vegetative wood from which flowers may arise in the following year. The shoot from the bud nearest to the cut takes the place of the pruned shoot.
4.Pollarding: Mere cutting back of the shoots, indiscriminately to reduce the height of the tree is Pollarding.
5.Pinching (tipping): Removal of the tip of the shoot to stop its indeterminate growth or to encourage the growth of the lateral buds is pinching or tipping. This is practiced in marigold and chillies at the time of transplanting.
6.Disbudding (nipping or rubbing): Nipping or rubbing of young buds preventing a chance of their sprouting is disbudding. When the buds arise in wrong places they are rubbed off. Similarly sprouts (Buds) on root stocks are disbudded.
7.De-blossoming: Removal of surplus flowers to enable the tree to produce crops regularly year after year is called deblossoming.This is practiced in alternate bearers like mango. apple etc.
Seasons of pruning
1.It depends on the type of wood, type of plant species and time of flower bud formation.
2.Removal of diseased, dead, and dried wood as well as water shoots can becarried out at any time of the year.
3.Pruning of healthy branches should not be done when the trees are in flowering or fruiting, since the resulting disturbance leads to loss of blossoms or fruits.
4.In deciduous trees, pruning can be done before the termination of dormancy.
5.In ever greens, pruning should be carried out before the start of active growth or after the harvest of the crops.
6.Summer pruning of deciduous trees and also the pruning of evergreens in the active growing season delays the formation of flower buds by prolonging vegetative growth.
Pruning and Manuring
1.It depends on the type of wood, type of plant species and time of flower bud formation.
2.Removal of diseased, dead, and dried wood as well as water shoots can becarried out at any time of the year.
3.Pruning of healthy branches should not be done when the trees are in flowering or fruiting, since the resulting disturbance leads to loss of blossoms or fruits.
4.In deciduous trees, pruning can be done before the termination of dormancy.
5.In ever greens, pruning should be carried out before the start of active growth or after the harvest of the crops.
6.Summer pruning of deciduous trees and also the pruning of evergreens in the active growing season delays the formation of flower buds by prolonging vegetative growth.
Pruning and Manuring
The sudden invigoration of a number of buds due to pruning makes a demand on the food resource of the tree, because the new shoots are not yet ready to manufacture their own food. The reserve food in the plant often may not be sufficient to meet this demand of new growth. Further, pruning means loss of much foliage and wood. So, to compensate the loss incurred due to pruning and to meet the demand of new shoots the pruned trees should be manured heavily, otherwise the new shoots ultimately wither and dry. This is particularly important when old (Senile) or neglected trees are pruned for rejuvenation.
Care of pruned wounds
Pruning leaves wounds and cut ends which should be protected to avoid the access of disease pathogens and insect pests through these wounds and cut ends .So, immediately after pruning, these cut ends and wounds should be protected by applying disinfectants like Bordeaux paste or blitox paste.
Care of pruned wounds
Pruning leaves wounds and cut ends which should be protected to avoid the access of disease pathogens and insect pests through these wounds and cut ends .So, immediately after pruning, these cut ends and wounds should be protected by applying disinfectants like Bordeaux paste or blitox paste.